There aren't many places that haven't changed in a quarter of a century, and even fewer that have gotten better.

When I first saw San Juan de Sur in 1973, it was a sleepy little portwith a perfect half moon bay and some of the best fishing on the Pacific Coast of Central America.

That hasn't changed. The harbor is still full of native fishing boats that you can hire for a fraction of what you would pay anywhere else, but there are now a couple of modern sportsfishermen with all the amenities so that you can catch tuna, dorado and billfish in comfort and safety.

The first time I went to San Juan del Sur, you could get the best lobster and fresh red snapper in Nicaragua under a thatched roof restaurant right on the beach. They had cold beer, too.

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The only difference now is that there are more restaurants and you can choose from pizza and European cuisine as well. The restaurants are still right on the beach and the moon still sparkles on the waves. You can get Corona or even Bud if you want.

Back in the old days, only the local regulars knew about San Juan del Sur and it was the place to see and be seen during the long Nicaragua summer. It still is and usually the only foreigners you see now are either young or adventurous.

You can still stroll the streets at night and say hello to the locals without fear or self-consciousness, but you can always stop in at the Joxi's or Marie's Bar if you want to see some of your countrymen.

There were great secret fishing and surfing spots up and down the coast, but you can drive there now instead of having to rent a horse and carry a tent or hammock. The prices are still the cheapest in Central America, but you can get a hotel room with your own bath and running water now if you want to.

The pace is still slow and easy, the people are still the most open and friendly in Nicaragua and the tide still comes in and out every day.

It can't last forever, probably not even the next quarter of a century, and that's all the more reason to see it like it is - while you still can.

Then you can join the rest of us who want to keep it just like it is.

by Harold Moore Jr.